
A freezer running constantly never cycles the compressor off, and the unit may still struggle to hold the set temperature. Usually, a stuck control, a frosted evaporator, a worn gasket, or a defrost fault keeps it running. First, confirm the setting is not too low. Then, work through the controls, the defrost parts, and the seal below.
When the freezer never shuts off, a control welded closed can hold the compressor on. The temperature control, often a cold control thermostat, senses the freezer temperature and switches the compressor on and off to hold the set point. When it fails, it may keep the compressor off, so the freezer warms, or hold it on, so the freezer runs cold. Therefore, turn the dial through its range and listen for the switch to click. Test it for continuity, and replace the control if it will not pass power at a cold setting.
A timer stuck in cooling never lets a defrost happen, so the compressor keeps working against frost. The defrost timer cycles the unit between normal cooling and a short defrost period that clears the evaporator coils. When it sticks in cooling, frost packs the coils until airflow drops. When it sticks in defrost, the compressor never runs. Therefore, advance the timer by hand and watch the unit switch modes. Replace the timer if it will not move the unit out of a mode on its own.
When the unit runs nonstop, a defrost thermostat stuck open lets frost choke the coils. The defrost thermostat sits on the evaporator coils and closes only when they are cold, which lets the defrost heater turn on. When it stays open, the heater never runs and frost builds up fast. So test the thermostat for continuity while it is at freezer temperature. Replace it if it stays open when cold, because a stuck-open thermostat is a common cause of heavy frost.
If the controls look right yet the unit never rests, the board may be holding the compressor on. On newer freezers, an electronic control board reads a sensor and runs the compressor and defrost based on the panel settings. When the board fails, the temperature drifts, the display acts up, or the freezer stops responding to the controls. So confirm the sensor reads correctly first, since a bad sensor can fool a good board. Replace the control board if the panel sets a temperature the freezer never reaches.
The defrost heater warms the evaporator coils during each defrost cycle so frost melts and drains away. When it burns out, frost keeps building until it blocks the airflow and the freezer warms. Therefore, test the heater for continuity with the power off. Replace the heater if it reads open, and clear any ice from the drain so melt water can escape.
When the compressor never rests, a leaky gasket pulling in warm air is a common reason. The door or lid gasket is the flexible seal that keeps warm, humid room air out of the freezer. When it tears, flattens, or no longer grips, warm air leaks in, which drives frost and makes the compressor run longer. So check the seal with a slip of paper, which should drag when you close the door on it. Replace the gasket if it is cracked, stiff, or lets the paper slide free.
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Is the freezer old or failing often? So weigh a repair against a new unit, and browse complete freezers and refrigerators when a replacement makes more sense.
Most of the time, a freezer that runs constantly and never shuts off traces back to one worn part. So replace it, then run a short cooling test and confirm the fix.